AUTOBIOGRAPHY

INTRODUCTION

I like to view myself as a multi-skilled Jewelry Artist specializing in Wax Sculpting, Metalsmithing, and the application of Mechanical Engineering to Jewelry.

Sculpting: I like to use a number of different media combining precious metals, Deer Antler, Leather, Ivory and Stone.

Metalsmithing: I like to combine silver, gold, and brass to create multi-tone effects.

Mechanical engineering: I enjoy creating clever ways of “Movement”. Whether it’s a turning wheel or flower petal spinning or muli hinged clasp system or interchangeable stone pendant. I really enjoy creating different mechanical wearable works of art.

PROCESS & TECHNICAL PROCEDURES

Step 1. Design Procedure

The first step in any new creation is to get the Idea on paper and decide how it will look and if or what special function it will have. The important thing with a drawing is to draw many different variations, angles and proportions. If the design incorporates a special function, I will draw multiple variations of hinge positions or how a particular piece may work. Also other key factors are size and shape practicality. Making sure the creation is useable comfortable and will not hurt is user. After all this is drawn I can decide which design style and mechanical theory will work the best together. Here are some new styles that I’m working on.

Step 2. Materials

With the cost of materials constantly going up it is important to view the business side of my creations. After I have chosen which drawing to use, I must decide on what materials to use and calculate a rough cost of materials. Currently gold is very expensive, so I might use a vermeil (gold plating) to test my market first before I do an expensive gold production. Personally I like to do most of my designs in silver and vermeil first, to keep my cost down. This also enables me to let my creative energy flow and not worry about having a financial burden.

Step 3. Production

Most of my creations roughly 85% are cast. Meaning I use the process called “lost wax casting” standard for the jewelry production industry. I first start with a wax carving. Carving wax is my favorite production step because my two dimensional drawing becomes three dimensional. This step is very time consuming, but as an Artist I don’t mind because my creative energy can really flow and my creation can come to life.

Other things to consider in wax carving are material weights and shrinkage. These are important factors when there are hinges, stone setting, or simply calculating material costs. For example when casting silver there is roughly a 7% shrinkage from the original master wax to finished jewelry design. Or when considering how much a certain design will weigh when finished, casted sterling silver is usually 10x times the weight in wax.


Step 4. Caving Natural Components

In the world of Sculpting there are three types of carving all depending on what material is used.
1) Additive 2) Subtractive 3) both Additive and Subtractive.
Wax carving is number “3” being one of the easiest materials to sculpt. Much like clay it can be cut down (subtractive) or added to. On the other hand other materials like stone or deer antler can only be subtractive number “2”. If a mistake is made or a line is cut to deep, one cannot add more material like wax or clay to fix it.
So when I carve deer antler components into my work it is one of the most difficult processes because I cannot afford to make mistakes. Sometimes it’s frustrating, I’ll have to start all over because my hand slipped at one of the finishing cuts.


Step 5. Metalsmithing

After the castings are finished and the components are carved, there is still much bench work to be done. I must grind and clean the castings and get them ready to be soldered. With the use a jeweler’s torch, the findings, including brooch pins, hinge joints, chain bails or back plates need to be soldered into place.


Step 6. Polishing/ Plating

When all heat processes are finished, I make sure all my joints work well and its time to polish. I use four different polishing compounds to complete my desired surface finish. Then once again I must clean the metal and prepare what areas I want to be gold plated and mask off areas that I don’t want gold on. After dipping the design for five minutes in a small 18kt gold cyanide electrolyte solution and the brightening solution, I can strip the masking paint with an acetone base solution. From here I can apply my liver of sulfur oxidizing solution to specific areas to achieve an antique finish.


Step 7. Finishing

This is the final step. When all the desired effect are done and proper mechanical functions work, all that’s left is to glue in the carved components. Because these components are natural deer antler or leather they must not subjected to harsh polish, solutions or oxidizing chemicals and need to be glued in last.
And this completes my technical procedures.

Step 8. Art Shows/ Sales

My least favorite of all steps, trying to sell my work. Actually, I like to see how the public reacts to my work and all the positive feed back from my customers. But I must admit that doing the art show circuit is hard in many ways, especially on my health. Currently I’m a full time Artist and am on the road 6 months out of the year selling my creations.